http://www.hoojetgfci.com
Home > Video > Video Dispaly

Video dispaly

  • Do It Yourself: Simple TEA Ultraviolet Laser

    2019-05-26

    Make yourself a real laser out of scraps, junk, pennies and clothespins!Inspired by Nyle Steiner’s work at Nyle! I learned a lot from this project, and it works surprisingly well.WARNING: This project uses HIGH VOLTAGE, and emits ULTRAVIOLET COHERENT LIGHT. So don’t go grabbing random stuff with your fingers, and don’t look into the invisible beam! I am not responsible for your blinded, twitching corpse if you screw up somehow. I can do this stuff because I have a lot of experience with high voltage and I know what I can get away with without killing myself… because I nearly have, several times. BE CAREFUL, keep one hand in pocket around HV kit, and wear safety glasses that block UV.This is a simple but real Ultraviolet Laser, requiring no optics and only a few parts. The only difficult/dangerous part is the 6 kv power supply, but the laser can be operated from any DC source capable of making the voltage necessary, like a VanDeGraaff generator for instance.The construction details can be found on Nyle’s website linked above, and the modifications and simplifications I made are obvious from this video. I decided to try the round barstock simply because I didn’t want to leave the house to go get some angle stock from the store. It seems to work fine! But I will also be trying the sharper edge of some brass shimstock for the smaller electrode later on; maybe it will work even better.To make this I used stuff that I had lying around the lab:A piece of 1/8 in thick Acrylite OP plastic for the base; Some heavyduty aluminum foil for the bottom capacitor plate; A piece of 0.004″ thick overhead transparency film for the dielectric; Some strips of aluminum duct tape for the upper capacitor plates; A 100k, 1/8 W resistor for the plate equalizer; A length of 3/8″ aluminum barstock for the “wall” electrode; A length of 3/16″ aluminum rod for the movable electrode; 4 US Copper Pennies for the spark gap; Some clothespins to hold stuff down; Some misc. bits of aluminum tape to make connections; A “dayglow” plastic tub toy for a fluorescent target; A yellow dayglow 6mm plastic airsoft BB, ditto; A 4×6″ dayglow index card, ditto; A power supply, 24 VDC in, 6.4 kV 1.2 mA out.Total “new” cost: $0.04Thanks for watching!

  • How to Install Base Cabinets with Wickes

    2019-05-26

    Base cabinets are crucial for any kitchen, creating storage and a surface for a worktop to rest on. Learn how to install a cabinet with this step by step guide from one of our Wickes experts. Subscribe to the Wickes YouTube channel here: For more Wickes videos click here: These are the steps to install your cabinets: 1. Starting in a corner, mark up exactly where you want your cabinets to go using a spirit level to keep it straight. 2. In the same corner you started before, place the first unit in position, so it's resting with its back against the wall. 3. If there's pipework or a high skirting board behind you'll have to cut an access gap both sides of the cabinet - mark where the pipes will pass and cut with a jigsaw. 4. Check the unit is level with a spirit level and adjust the legs as necessary - you can then add the next cabinet. 5. Clamp the two units together with two G clamps, one at the top and one at the bottom. 6. Remove the hinge plates to attach the cabinets together neatly, drill and screw through the adjacent cabinet with the screws provided, then replace the hinge plate. 7. Towards the back of the side panel, drill a hole through both cabinets and secure using screws. 8. Attach L-shaped brackets to the top of each side panel. Use these as templates to mark where they need to be drilled into the wall. 9. Check there are no pipes or wires using a cable and pipe detector. 10. Using the appropriate drill bit, drill a hole to the length of your screw, tap in a wall plug and screw the bracket into place. 11. Continue until all the cabinets are in position. 12. At the end of the row of cabinets you should place a side panel, you may need to cut this down to the correct size to fit your cabinets. 13. Use a circular saw or jigsaw to cut down your side panel and if necessary, cut the panel around the skirting too using an off cut for guidance. 12. Clamp the side panel to the cabinet, remove the hinges and drill a hole through the cabinet where the side panel is to be hung. 13. Screw the cabinet to the panel and replace the hinges, repeat for all other side panels. Shop Wickes measuring tools here: Find a pipe and cable detector here: Shop Wickes drills and drill bits here: Shop Wickes saws here: Shop Wickes clamps here: Shop Wickes screwdrivers here: Learn more about the Wickes kitchen cabinet range or book a free design appointment here: Watch more helpful DIY videos from Wickes below; How to Home Maintenance with Wickes: How to Kitchens with Wickes: How to Garden and Landscape with Wickes: How to Tile a Bathroom with Wickes: How to Paint and Decorate with Wickes: Wickes Website: Wickes Facebook: Wickes Twitter: Wickes YouTube channel: If you'd like to find out more from Wickes, the order line number is 0330 123 4123

  • Mold Making Techniques – Sculpting The Mother Mold

    2019-05-26

    How to make a skull mold for making skulls and sculpting clay to make a matrix, case, blanket, or also known as a mother mold. In this first part 1 video how to tutorial we share step-by-step how we sculpt and shape water based sulfur free sculpting clay around one of our plaster skulls. These instructions and techniques given will prepare the skull or bust for the two part hard shell or jacket we make in the second video. The goal is to shape the clay around the outside of the skull to the shape of the inside of the mother mold also known as matrix molds, case molds, or blanket molds. You can use several materials for the outer jacket like Ultracal plaster, fiberglass, resin, or plastics. For this example I will be using a fiber filled trowelable Plastic Paste product you will see in the following videos. I build a little plywood base plate or form with wooden straight edges slightly taller on the sides to help roll the desired thickness I want the clay to be. I use petroleum jelly and a ease release agent spray to reach all the undercuts inside the eye sockets and nose areas. There are several great how to videos on the market with professionals that have much more experience and tricks up their sleeves and there are several ways to do a mold similar to this style. making is an art form and its the end result and functionality is what I think is important. I really wanted to show anybody interested in mold making and give them some answers and concepts to the many questions I had when I started out on this project and at the same time help prevent some of the mistakes that I made first time out. There are several places to purchase fake or realistic looking skulls and often times the more realistic and detailed they are the more they cost. This can get expensive if your needing 30 or more skulls for a catacomb scene, motion picture film shoot or a Halloween yard or home haunt. A well built skull mold is one way to help keep the over all cost of your project down in the long run. Although some of the materials to get started will have some cost attached to it like silicone rubber, clay, resins, plaster, or fiberglass for instance, it should pay off in the end. So if your a do it yourself type of a person with a little time and patience than this video may help you get some ideas for your future skull mold making project. This video is the first in a series of videos that will take you through all the steps we took to make the style mold we use all the time to make our Halloween skull props. We place these skulls all throughout our home and yard haunt and inside our walk through maze and crypt mausoleums. We created a whole catacomb wall behind our foam crypt coffin prop we had last year. We cast them with hard plaster and drilled holes and glued 3/8″ bolts into the backs to make mounting to the wall easier. We really hope these videos help with your future mold making projects and you enjoyed watching them. Thanks for not laughing at my professional sculpting tools like a flat head screw driver. I use whats with in reach! We used royalty free music for this video from continue the skull mold making videos click these links below Making A Skull : Part 2 Making A Skull : Part 3 Making A Skull : Part 4 Making A Skull : Part 5 Human Skull & Casting Props If you would like to see more prop making videos check out our YouTube Channel Visit our Facebook Page If you found this video helpful or entertaining please give us a thumbs up and be sure to subscribe to our channel. Thank you so much for watching our video and supporting our channel.

  • How to Remove a Toggle Bolt Out of Your Wall

    2019-05-26

    Hey Guys check out Joshua Clement’s DIY and Home Improvement videos at and follow him on Facebook at everyone! I’m Joshua and I’m going to talk to you about how to remove those toggle bolts from the walls. Toggle bolts are one of the best inventions because they allow you to put stuff anywhere you want on drywall, plaster or even your paneling. But when it comes getting them out – they’re impossible to get out. You can’t save the bolt on the backside and you end up losing it. So here we have a toggle bolt that is in the wall. As you can see you can’t get it out. A toggle bolt is designed to after goes into the wall expand grab as much surface area is possible that why you can hang a lot of wait on a very small area. To get it out you’re going to need a drill or a screwdriver with a phillips bit. What we’re going to do is we’re going to grab onto our screw. start pulling a little bit and slowly start removing that screw. What happens is the toggle bolt on the inside of the wall ends up falling down and ends up hitting the base plate on the inside of the wall. Or staying in your insulation. It’s not going to hurt anything there all that happens is your going to loose the back of your toggle bolt so you are going to have to buy a new one if you are wanting to put it someplace else. Thanks for watching

  • Bradley 9135 Hat and Coat Hook

    2019-05-26

    Please find this product at This video is to bring you a closer look at the Bradley 9135 hat and coat hook. So the Bradley 9135 is a stainless steel product, magnet there so we know there’s no attraction at all. It’s stainless steel, all stainless steel. And the 9135 means that it is in a bright polished finish as you can see, got some fingerprint on it, but it is a bright polished, it is a polished stainless. Commercial grade sort of hat and coat that you’re going to see in commercial settings; airports, movie theatres, you know heavy use restroom situations. Utilitarian in design meant to do a job, meant to be corrosion resistant, stainless steel. There’s a link below this video to what is called the technical data sheet and with this Bradley product it’s really nothing more than a product brochure showing this and its sister related products. Type 304 stainless. Let’s get some dimensions on this. The assecution on this is a real typical size, it’s 2″ by 2″, very typical size. The overall height of this coat and hat hook is going to be about 6-7/8, yeah, 7″. So it’s 7″ from this point down to the bottom here. The width is 1″, that’s very typical, projection is about 2-13/16 I believe, about 2-3/4 roughly from the wall to the outside of the projection. This is held onto the wall by means of this wall bracket and I’ve got the set screw slightly loosened, before we go further screws are included, no other anchors are included but screws are. Let me show you how that works, got a set screw down in there, slotted, got a little screw driver here. You rotate that counter clockwise to get that down, and you can remove your wall plate or your anchor plate, you basically attach that to the wall and be mindful of your height be mindful to be compliant with ADA regulations, be mindful to comply with the height of other items in your bathroom as well. So, once the wall plate is anchored to the wall, these two little fingers at the top are going to go inside or meet here just like that and once those fingers are in there even without the set screw tightened its secure. And then once you get that done you’re going to tighten up that set screw. Once you get that tight and then you have a real sturdy installation there, real solid installation once that set screws all tight, and that’s how that goes. Bradley is a full line provider, manufacturer of restroom equipment, everything from simple hat and coat hooks to multi combination units that you see in the same commercial settings and very solid quality material available in several different variations than this, but they have other hooks etc, other shapes. If you have any questions on the Bradley 9135 coat and hat hook or any other Bradley product please feel free to reach out to us. Thank you.

  • ASI 0755-SS18 18″ Towel Bar

    2019-05-26

    Please find this product at This video is to bring you a closer look at the ASI 0755-SS18 18″ Towel Bar. This item consists of three components, first you’ll have your steel tube (18″). There is a link below this video to the cut sheet with everything important. This is stainless steel. You will also have two wall flanges (these are not the same). One flange has a set screw and that is intended for holding the bar on (alan wrench style set screw). Heavy duty stainless steel, type 818-304, 1″ diameter, 20 gauge. You’ll have your two counter-sunk flanges. This is really a substantial item. This is something you would see in a nursing home, hospital, commercial sort of hotel application. The bar is 1″ diameter. The flanges have a projection of 2-1/2″ to the center line which would put the overall at about 3-1/16″. The mounting plate diameter is 2-5/8″. Center line is 2-1/2″. The bar is 18″ (measured from center to center). are NOT included, you’re going to have to provide fasteners for your three counter sunk holes (round head style screw). There is a guide to the installation on the cut sheet (link below this video). 54″ maximum above the finished floor for your unit. If you’re buying multiple bars at once be careful not to use all your mounting brackets with the set screws, you only get one per each bar. If you have any questions on the ASI 0755-SS18 18″ Towel Bar or any other product by ASI please feel free to reach out to us.

  • ShopJimmy Universal TV Stand/Base for 37″- 55” TVs-Install Universal TV Stand & Wall Mount

    2019-05-26

    Universal TV Stand & Wall Mount for 37”-55” TVs. Click Here to Buy a TV Stand/Mount: the 3755 TV Stand/Base Here: US: Twitter – @ShopJimmy – Facebook – ShopJimmy.com – ………………………………….­……………………………………………….3755 TV Stand/Base Installation InstructionsStep 1: • Fit plastic base cap into top (clear) side of glass base. • Insert bottom of metal stand post into plastic base cap. • Holding metal base plate flush to bottom (black) side of glass base, insert base bolts through bottom of metal base plate, glass base, plastic base cap, and into bottom of metal stand post. Turn base bolts clockwise with Allen key until hand-tight.Step 2: • Hold back (flat) side of TV plate flush against the front of metal stand post and in-line with the top 4 screw holes on stand post. • Insert bolts through front of TV plate and stand post until bolt head is flush with TV plate. • On back side of stand post, attach washer plate, washers and cap nuts to bolts. Tighten cap bolts until hand-tight. *Do not over tighten, as this can damage the shape and integrity of the stand post.Step 3: • Using Phillips screwdriver (not included), attach TV brackets to your TV using appropriate TV bracket screws and spacers (if necessary), so that pre-installed fastening screws (on TV brackets) are at bottom.Step 4: • Attach TV brackets to front of stand post by resting the hooks of TV brackets on the top of TV plate (F). • Center TV on TV plate and turn pre-installed fastening screws clockwise with Phillips screwdriver (not included) until screws are behind the front lip of TV plate and TV brackets are locked.• *Should you wish to lower your TV on the stand post, simply release TV and TV brackets from TV plate, adjust TV plate height on stand post, and reinstall TV brackets to TV plate.

  • ESYLink Ethernet (RJ45) & Coax Wall Plate Install

    2019-05-26

    ESYLink Ethernet Wall Plate: Canon 80D: I purchased this wall plate to run a CAT 5e drop to another portion of the house. It is much easier to use than one that requires splicing. All that's needed with this plate is to plug each connection into the plate, screw it into the wall, and your done. That's it. I recommend it. My router had an unused port on the back, so I ran a CAT 5e through the attic, upstairs, and into a centralized room into another wireless router. I did this to supply the upstairs with better quality wireless signal and it works great. I used an old, not too old, cisco router that I wasn't using. Signal is great. From one drop to the next, the installed CAT 5e is 100 feet long. Signal is great. Check it out on Amazon:

  • SHOWER VALVE INSTALL - Plumbing Tips

    2019-05-26

    AMAZON TOOL SHOP HERE: ***VISIT OUR SPONSORS*** | | | ***VISIT OUR FROM THE VAN CHANNEL*** ***Facebook*** ***Twitter*** This video covers the basics of fitting a thermostatic shower valve. Includes plumbing connections, fitting to the wall and testing operation. Please subscribe and favourite! Hi, and welcome to part one plumberparts.co.uk video. In part one today, I'm going to show you how to fit a Bristan artisan bar shower mixer. They're a pretty common type. In the second video, I'm going to show you how to actually fit the shower head and riser rail nice and straight and neatly so it looks absolutely amazing. So let's get going and have a wicked time. So first things first, looking at the bar mixer itself, you've got your temperature control at this end. These are thermostatic shower mixers, so what they have is a probe on the inside that mixes the water automatically for you, according to the temperature that you want on the adjustment. The good thing about this particular make of shower is if the thermostatic control goes wrong, you can take this end off, whip out the thermostatic control and put a new one in. And Bristan are usually really good about sending new ones out. Looking at the bar mixer itself, you've got to take into account that you've got a cold and a hot coming into it. So make sure you get them the right way around. Fortunately, we've already our pipes come through. So they're roughly about the same width away. This particular shower has 1500 centres. They're all pretty much the same. Most bar shower mixers are 1500 centres, but always check. So before we start, we've got to turn the hot and cold off to the system, drain it all down, and make sure it's all turned off. Next, just take five minutes to study the instructions and find out how these actually work. These are special wall brackets for this particular type of valve. And as I said, most other manufacturers do use this method as well, so it could help you out. Basically it is a wall plate that is also an integral compression fitting that will create a water-tight seal. What happens is, is your pipe sticks out of the wall, goes through this fitting here. Then your two screws screw that to the wall. You usually want to cut your pipe off so it's about so far out, so about a centimetre sticking out. You have an olive that slips over that and goes in there. And then you have the other part of the compression fitting that you tighten up on there. You can see you've got some flats on there to tighten it up. Then the shower valve itself will actually connect to that part there and tighten up. So let's have a look at how we do it. The first thing I always try to do is make sure that the pipes you've got have still got a bit of move and play in them. So if they're not exactly 1500 centres, you can wiggle them about so they are. Fortunately these are already. Now the next thing I'd do, is just measure your 1500 across and just mark that just above where the pipe comes out. Now you know exactly where your 1500s are. Next, push each one of these clamps on so they're fully home and against the wall. Next, put a small strobe level on. Get each clamp on so it's level, and then mark the holes. Once you've got your holes marked, you can drill the holes for the screws to go through that clamp, and then clamp the clamp up. We're lucky here because the tiling here has been put onto a nice bit of hard wood. So we can just go through the tile and then screw into the hard wood itself. You might not be so lucky. You might have a cavity wall, in which case you're going to need cavity plugs or something like that. Always look for an installation like this. Try to make sure that you know where the water pipes are so you don't drill into them. All right, what I usually do now is just get some silicon, and fill that little hole up a bit. Just in case you have any water go down there, it can't escape into the back cavity of the tiles and one day pull all the tiles off. So now, push up the actual clamp itself onto the pipe. And then push that up to your holes. And then screw two screws in there to clamp it in place. Excellent bond there. And do that to the other side. Now I always find the best way to do this bit is, to slide your olive on, and slide your other half of the compression on. And then tighten it up a little way. Get yourself a pencil and just mark as far down inside the pipe as you can and that'll be where you cut the pipe off. You wouldn't have to do this in copper but because it's a plastic part, we have to put the inserts in. So make sure you've got the taper in going in, first. So that'll push down on the olive. Screw it on, just with your hands.

  • how to build a wall of aerated concrete

    2019-05-26

    We start the construction of the wall. Built from aerated concrete blocks. Foundation ready, waterproofing done.   We start with the corners. We are planting them at the level of stretching the cord and start first row. First line using a mixture of cement-sand base.  Our units are very accurate so the next line will use the special glue. Another valid tool - big rubber hammer. incised grooves strikes excess free from dust, water washing We are inserting metal rods We wash again Filled with glue. Next layer glued with an adhesive similar to the tiles. The adhesive thickness of 1-2 mm. Such seam thermal protected. Before the first row we Place the building blocks of the space inside the walls 1m In this way, easy to strengthen the line. Material is at your fingertips. We can also fiber reinforcement in such a manner (Murfor flat armature) In this case there is no need to form grooves. It is time economy. We do it in every fourth row. Tool for precise cutting blocks liberating restraints use, putting him. We screw them present boards. Next topic how to create a lintel above the windows and doors. We have the fondation and before started to build a wall we need to horizontal waterproofing and vertical thermal insulation. This is to avoid moisture from the ground to the walls and the cold through the foundation in the house. Vertical thermal insulation sheets suitable for use for leaving the country. In our case it is TENAPORS EPS100- 50mm. The wall plate or to superimpose the glue with a notched scraper plate and pressed to the wall. The wall must be dry. Adheres very well.   The next day we cut off the excess with a knife edge, or as I am old jigsaws. Very comfortable. Very convenient to cut a roll of the required size with inexpensive jigsaws. I have an old and cheap, do not regret. Ruberoid be covered foundation edges at least 1 cm.  Use liquid bitumen mastic in two layers. The base must be dry and clean from sand. The round corners overlap each other. Nowhere have not manufacture penetrating seam in one place. better clumping imposes weight.  Pie: - mastic / ruberoid / mastic / ruberoid. For better adhesion to the wall of the upper layer is recommended for use with roofing felt tiny to full cover at the top edge. foundation 1. part: other related topic of measuring tape: tile joints and corners : abut tilling : some creative ideas: the best material for home construction: How to start building a House Dirt Rhodes by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license () Source: Artist: Satin Sgar "Huma-Huma" Youtube Audio Library

  • Diy how to change expansion tank

    2019-05-26

    This expansion tank is on a hot water boiler and needs to be replaced. A couple simple tricks to get the tank out without loosing all the water. Even a little comedy mixed in unintentionally. Replacement tank link Amazon link to Great products that every DIYer and Handyman should know about. Switch and Receptacle Spacers Drywall Sanding Sponge Plaster Washers Plaster Ears and 1-7/8-Inch Long Legs Ball Valve Compression Polyurethane Roof And Flashing Sealant Duct Seal Compound Titanium Step Drill Bit Liquid Electrical Tape Grounding Hex Head Screw Great products that every DIYer should know about. These products can be searched in my channel for more details. I will also make videos explaining each one. Stop back often to see new products that I add. If you feel that I helped you in a way that you would like to give to my patreon

  • Absolute easiest way water expansion tank replacement

    2019-05-26

    This is a great diy how to change a potable water expansion tank. Thus procedure allows you to replace the expansion tank without draining the entire house or getting drenched with water. Expansion tank replacement link Amazon link to Great products that every DIYer and Handyman should know about. Switch and Receptacle Spacers Drywall Sanding Sponge Plaster Washers Plaster Ears and 1-7/8-Inch Long Legs Ball Valve Compression Polyurethane Roof And Flashing Sealant Duct Seal Compound Titanium Step Drill Bit Liquid Electrical Tape Grounding Hex Head Screw Great products that every DIYer should know about. These products can be searched in my channel for more details. I will also make videos explaining each one. Stop back often to see new products that I add. If you feel that I helped you in a way that you would like to give to my patreon

Communicate with Supplier?Supplier
linsairu Ms. linsairu
What can I do for you?
Contact Supplier